Goat Rocks Wilderness - Washington State 5 day Backpack Trip

Intro: After spending a week long trip in Portland, OR working and playing in the evenings my friend Jason flew out to take part in the hike of our lives. The plan was to hike the Goat Rocks Wilderness area on a 40 mile planned trip which would almost culminate a full loop hike. The Goat Rocks are set about 100 Miles North East of Portland in the great state of Washington. Our only company on this trip was that of giants; Mt. Rainier, Mount St. Helens and Mt. Adams providing us with spectacular views during the next week.

Bee stings, high cliffs, snowfields, AMS (acute mountain sickness), blisters, pulled muscles, 50lbs backpacks, OH MY GOD are we still ALIVE?

My Gear & Food for 5 days .................... Map of our travels

Day 1 (Sunday 8/26) Start: Packwood Trail Head End: Lost Lake

Hike Stats: Time: 8.5 hours

Distance: 9 miles

Elevation Gain: 3,162 feet

Well the trip really started off great when we were given our rental car. Yes a Ford Mustang cherry red was our fate. We asked for a mid size and got stuck in this puppy and let me tell you driving 20 miles up a mountain dirt road is pretty interesting when in a rear wheel drive sports car. So suitcases in the trunk and our packs riding bitch in the backseat, we drove out to Packwood lake trail head to start our trip.

Right about now is the point when you realize, wow I'm going to be walking for 40 miles with a 50 pound bag on my back over mountains and streams. With that said the excitement was still fresh so Jason and I loaded up our bags and off we went. Our first 4 miles of hiking went pretty fast as we were energized from our giant breakfast at Packwood's finest and only breakfast stop "Cruisers Pizza Restaurant". Yeah it is a pizza place, breakfast spot and sports lounge all in one. Anyway we had arrived at Packwood lake. This lake was beautiful and the low cloud cover was flirting with the mountain peaks around the lake adding an eerie touch to the already isolated scenery. We stopped for a Cliff Bar and some photos of the area. We noticed some abandoned ranger cabins and then were greeted by some day hikers. A large group of family and friends still in their urban clothes were venturing around on a quick day hike to the lake and joking "man we need a ski lift to get us up here next time". We chatted for a bit and I'm not sure they understood why we would want to hike 40 miles. Looking back I think I might now agree with the idea that 40 miles over 5 days is extreme. We moved on our way with 5 miles yet to hike to reach Lost Lake.

Hiking uphill with the air growing thinner we heard a very strange sound at one point and then realized that was the sound of 300 super pissed off bees aggressively flying out of their hive. By the time my brain made the sound = bees = run connection I had got hit with 4 stings. Imagine a grown man running with arms waving in the air stomping as he is getting stung and you will get a picture of what I looked like. It was sort of like Riverdance if you released 300 pissed off bees into the mix. Anyway after this little set back we continued on and finally reached Lost Lake high in the back country at 5500 feet. Jason was starting to feel Altitude sickness and was having problems staying warm. We made a fast camp and pretty much ate dinner and went to sleep. I think at this point we were both realizing this trip was not going to be fun and games and we were in for something a little more serious.

Packwood lake ............................................ Lost Lake

Day 2 (Monday 8/27) Start: Lost Lake End: Packwood SaddleHike Stats: Time: 8 hours
Distance: 7 miles
Elevation Gain: 1,808 feet

Elevation Max: 6,342 feet

We awoke to clear blue sky and the sound of morning birds. We collected dry wood left around Lost Lake and made a morning fire to stay warm in the mountain chill. My ankles were swollen and my legs look like they were used in the final scene of Casino the movie. Did I mention my damn legs itch and burn like crazy from these freaking stings. We try for a good fifteen minutes to remove the stinger still in my ankle after last nights failed attempt. This is when I pull out my survival guide and it says to never use tweezers to remove a bee sting. No shit I didn't know that one! After my failed attempts of using tweezers to remove the stinger, I flip my finger nail across my skin and break it off as the guide instructs. I guess that using tweezers only squeezes the venomous stinger, releasing more poison into the body causing more irritation. Flicking off the stinger is the way to go. Lesson learned!

Today's hike would take us over 6 very difficult miles with our first views of Mt. Rainier, a herd of mountain Goats and my first ever sighting of a Bald Eagle. We passed the 6k elevation mark and hiked upward and onward. We also got our first views of Old Snowy mountain which we would have a challenging cross on Day 3. Packwood glacier and the entire ridge line both in front of us and across the valley was now visible showing us the difficult path which lied ahead. This is where we walked the Coyote trail which is more like a faint dust and rock path cut into the ridge of some seriously dangerous cliffs and mountains. The hiking here was not easy and we progressed with caution.

Myself with Old Snowy in the distance ............... First view of Mt. Rainier

Walking the ridge tops I reach my limit for the day and after 8 hours of tough trail my legs are weak. We reach Packwood Saddle a small lull on the ridge where tall pines thrive right below treeline. We setup a camp and then hike one thousand feet down the mountain to find a small stream for filtering water. Not so bad but hiking back up a quick thousand feet to camp took me over the edge. A sudden onset of panic took over my mind and I quickly sat down beside the fire ring as I realize I'm not feeling good. A headache brews along with a nauseous feeling almost like sea sick but something different. Acute Mountain Syndrome was taking it's toll and every breath was crucial to calm myself down. For the remainder of the night I would suffer this unfamiliar feeling of weakness and fatigue. We ate our freeze dried dinners (kung Pao Chicken for me) and I crawled in the tent to sleep.

Awesome Panoramic shot of Packwood Valley with Old Snowy "click to enlarge"

Yes that is the trail .................Packwood Saddle Camp

Day 3 (Tuesday 8/28) Start: Packwood Saddle End: Snowgrass Flats

Hike Stats: Time: 9 hours

Distance: 7 miles

Elevation Gain: 2,402 feet
Elevation Max: 7,137 feet

Waking today I still felt fatigued and was moving slow. Packing up gear consisting of sleeping bag, pad, clothes and tent took a great deal of effort. Setting up and breaking down camp day in and out is a taxing job and our plan accounted for no down time.

We will reach the half-way point of our 5-day trip on today's hike as we cross the face of Old Snowy Mountain. First though we hike up through Elk's Pass and along the ridge top. The Coyote trail eventually ends at a trail junction with the Pacific Crest Trail or PCT. Jason and I took a break at the peak and dropped our super heavy packs. We were both hurting pretty bad and needed the 30 minute break to cook up some Wild Oats Ramon like noodles for lunch. I decided to grab my Gerber mini-axe and head down to the snowfield for a chance of a lifetime. Yes I chipped off some ice and proceeded to melt it in my Jetboil burner. About 10 minutes later of repeating this process I had a full Nalgene bottle of thousand year old water. I must be honest it tasted pretty strange and after this trip I learned that glacier and snowfields hold a lot of sediment and was probably mineral heavy. Lesson two learned!

*Click to enlarge and look for the trail in the middle of pic*

After our break we push up the steep incline of dirt and rock towards Egg Butte. We were literally on cliff faces with three thousand foot drop offs. Did I ever mention I have a natural born fear of heights? I've heard that to be truly free you must conquer your fears in life so this trip was a natural progression in my personal freedom. Anyway, I guess we should have known it would be rough after seeing the sign a little ways back stating "Next 1.5 mile difficult for Stock" which translates into "your horse will fall and die so please don't continue on with a horse".

Baby stepping (or trip's theme.. baby steps, baby steps ) around Egg Butte and other difficult rock formations we come across a hiker moving at super speeds. He was approaching us and we stopped to chat for a few. My first question to the stranger was "hey so where did you start at" and expecting him to name a local trail head I was surprised by his answer "MEXICO". Turns out the first person we see in 2 days is a PCT through hiker who started his journey in Mexico on April 14th and plans to finish in Canada around September 20th. I cannot imagine what five months out there must be like but we congratulate him on his accomplishment and notice how damn small his backpack was. I guess efficient packing and gearing up comes with experience and Jason and I have a way to go to reach the ultralight status.

Moving on we reach our adversary of this journey... Old Snowy Mountain. This is a former volcano and still a 7,900 foot peak with snowfields dotting the North Face. (ok yeah i just wanted to say North Face in a real life situation. .busted) Our path is over large loose rock pieces and the size of the rock field is huge, the entire side of the mountain is loose rock and snowfields. Our trail meets one of these snowfields and we have to walk across this slippery hazard with no boot crampons. Did I mention the angle of the slope was around 55 degrees to the right. Yeah that equals very steep walking with 50lbs on my back going over snow. It was one of the hardest things I have ever experienced. Each boot step is death waiting if you slip up. Baby stepping forward, kick your boot into the side of the snow and Ice and make the foot hole as flat as you can before applying your weight. Then move your polls one by one balancing the load and repeat with your right foot. This 40 yard crossing took all my energy and upon reaching the other side, I collapsed having giving the ice monster my all. The death grip I had on my hiking poles cramped up my hands so I took a minute to recover collapsed on the loose rocks. Right then I heard a sound from high above the mountain and looked to see a boulder the size of a washing machine gaining speed coming down the mountain. This was just unbelievable to see as this rock flew by at least moving 50-60mph crossing the very snowfield we just conquered. We realized real fast we better keep on moving and so we hustled tired legs as fast as we could to reach the other side of Old Snowy.

This day was the most difficult yet and we didn't make it to Goat Lake. With the Sun setting we pop up our tent in a open area near Snowgrass Flats. We watch the Sun set with a spectacular view of Mt. Adams and St. Helens which we can see venting steam from its volcanic lava flow melting glaciers.

Second Snow field of the day......................Looking back at Old Snowy. Zoom in to see trail line

Old Snowy on left and Mt Rainier on right

Camp Night 3- Mt. Adams..................Mount St. Helens steam plumes view from camp

Day 4 (Wednesday 8/29) Start: Snowgrass Flats End: Hawkeye Point Area

Hike Stats: Time: 9.5 hours
Distance: 6 miles
Elevation Gain: 2,200 feet

Elevation Max: 7,182 feet

Today was the kind of day you never forget. We awoke from our slumber and found that the South side of the Mountain ridge is much warmer during the day. No snowfields on this side instead alpine plants, mountain grasses and loose rock / sand dominate the hillsides. The day becomes incredibly HOT as the sun beats down from clear blue skies. Sunscreen and hats fail to hold a defense to the ultraviolet rays raining down upon us.

By mid day we reach Goat Lake which is a high alpine lake fed by snow melts and the local rocks must add to it's bizarre color. We eat lunch here in this moon like terrain and cannot find escape from the intense heat and Sun. Moving on we hike along a beautiful path cut into the grassy cliffs and hills with Heart Lake spotted in the distance around 3 miles away. Meeting a hiker with dog we receive some word that yet another snowfield crossing lies ahead and we would need to go up around the obstacle as this one is to steep to walk over. We break for 30 minutes on a ridge top and I decide to explore up near Hawkeye Point and capture this awesome 360 video of the horrizon "view below video and panoramic pic".

Click on picture to enlarge

Meeting back up with Jason we pushed onward and reached the snowfield which was sitting right in the way on the side of a cliffy steep mountain. We evaluate the situation and see some foot prints going right up the mountain to try and walk over the snowfield. So, Jason and I start upward heading straight up with the goal of reaching a height above that of the snowfield so we can walk laterally past then slide back down to the trail on the other side. This plan may have sounded good but after about 10 steps up this 50-60 degree slope of extremely loose dirt and rocks I realize we are in for a rough one. 100 feet or so now above the trail I start slipping and have to lie on my side and cling to rocks with my feet and hands. I am scarred beyond belief that this heavy pack is going to pull me down the mountain. One slip and the momentum of a fall would equal disaster. We both hear a person yelling down to us from up higher saying something about a trail but the wind makes it hard to hear him. We think for a minute and reach the point above the snowfield but not without extreme difficulty and learning that the way down on the other side is nearly impossible.

We decide to fold this idea and slide down on our asses the way we came up. With one foot in front and poles as brakes I bloody up my knees and rip up my pants on the way down. Two times in my life I have starred death in the face and lived to speak about it. The first threat of death was from a single shrimp, and the second was that of a loaded gun pointed to my head. Clinging on that mountain with the awe inspiring beauty of Mt. Adams and endless horizon in the distance I was forced back to that experience of death and choking that so suddenly shook my world years ago. I was eating a pasta dinner at Red Fish in Cincinnati when I choked on a shrimp for about 45 seconds. After realizing that gulping and trying to swallow would not save my life panic overtook my mind as the reality of death set in. Writing this now still makes me feel that realization that life is only guaranteed by the next breath of air. Anyway, my instinct took over and I stood above the dinner table blue in the face and dumped my water into my mouth until it forced me to throw up. This process dislodged the Shrimp from my throat and slammed it into the wall across the table. The feeling after something like this happens is totally unrepresented by words. I guess when it comes down to life and death my instinct was to fight and not let go. I would need those instincts again to get me out of this situation alive!

I continued down the mountain side, sliding and half stepping out of control. I fought my way to solid ground. THANK YOU, THANK YOU we made it down!! The feeling of shear gratitude and humbleness overtook me and I was speechless for the next 15 minutes. Jason and I throw in the towel and decide to hike back about half a mile the way we came to setup camp in a somewhat flat area.

We start researching other trails that could get us out of this place looking for a trailhead where we might hitch-hike a ride back to Packwood. No good options exist as most trailheads are over 20 miles from a real road witch equals a long walk if the hitch-hike attempt fails. Scouting camp spots we see a tent below and realize it is the guy from earlier who was yelling to us on the hillside. Speaking with him and his wife we learn the trail was rerouted and our map did not show this detour to bypass the snowfield. Good news is that we can continue down our original trail but the bad news is we are 3-4 miles under today's planned mileage and going forward now is going to require an extra day/night in the backcountry to make it to our car.

Once again the Sun sets with Adams in the distance and then a small plane surprises us flying up over the ridge line literally even with our altitude. We learn this is how some of the rangers check on backcountry campers since the areas are pretty remote. It was pretty cool to realize we were higher then the plane and made for a weird perspective looking down on it from our high vantage point. The pilot gave us the "wave" by tilting the wings left then right and I signaled an OK back with a half-assed salute.

Going to bed Jason and I started to formulate a plan that could save us from our extra day of hiking. The only question was if the couple camping nearby would agree once we discussed with them in the morning.

Day 5 (Thursday 8/30) Start: Hawkeye Point Campsite End: Lilly Basin TH
Hike Stats: Time: 7 hours

Distance: 11 miles

Elevation Gain: 1,300 feet
Elevation Max: 7,188 feet

Time to propose our plan to our wilderness neighbhors. Here is our issue. At this point in the trip we still had about 11 miles to make the Lilly Basin TH and then another 4-5 miles of dirt road walking along with bushwhacking off the road to connect back to our car at the Packwood Lake TH. Knowing this last 4 miles will be super hard and with both of our spirits at an all time low from exhaustion and 4 solid days of hiking 30 miles we come up with a plan. It just so happened that our new trail friends had their car parked at Lilly Basin TH so Jason and I purpose they give us their keys and we use their car as a shuttle to pick up our car and save us 4 miles of off-trail bushwhacking. The thing is an offer like this sounds crazy when living in the city but when meeting others in the woods there is this strange force of looking out for each other that takes over. We talk with Chris and Brianna and offer to drive their car to another Trail Head location this way they can continue to hike forward and don't have to back hike to their car. This plan benefited both parties and after some morning discussion and trading of information we made a deal. Jason and I hiked up the 200 foot hillside to the ridge looking back one last time to see our trail angels now only represent specks on the hillside below.

Today would be a grand finale hike of 11 miles to get out of this place. I had the will and determination to eat cheeseburgers and drink beer at Cruisers Pizza by nightfall. The hike started by re-routing us around the snowfield which caused all of yesterday's problems. Once around this we could see looking back just how steep it was coming down the new trail. This photo on the right can show you that perspective.

We hike forward along the mountain through grassy hillsides and wrapped around Heart Lake. The ridgelines ahead played tricks on us as we think we approach our last accent, the trail holds suprises over each new horizon. After two large valley walk arounds on the side of the mountain we reach our final ridge and followed it down for 6 miles to our exit point. This hike out was still rough as a large amount of tree blowdown was all over. Every 50 feet or so we walked upon giant pines laying over the trail which required tricky climbs while guarding your man-hood from damage. After 30 or so of these obstacles, starving and stumbling forward I run out of water but that doesn't matter now. I have the eye of the tiger and ignore the throbbing pain shooting up my legs and back, keep moving forward!

Jason behind snowfield .............. Click photo to see James and trail

At last we reach the trail head and the only car there to say hello is the Subaru Outback we have been looking for! We hop in smelling like a walking loccer room after a long football seasons end. After moving cars and grabbing a shower back at the motel in Packwood I sit in awe at the mountain of French fries that lies in front of me. I ordered the 1/2lbs Cruiser's Cheeseburger along with a Coke, Beer and water to wash it down. Now that was a well deserved meal not taken for granted!!

Mountain Flowers...................................... Great view of Packwood Lake & Mt. Rainier

Conclusion: No shower, No real food, No comfort in 5 long days along with facing my fear of heights and multiple run ins with death. This sounds pathetic really that roughing it for 5 days could bring such torment but if you knew my past life you would most likely understand. I didn't grow up in the woods but rather in front of the Computer. No regrets but as a kid and teen I lived in the world of electrons and bytes paving the way to my future self. These last few years of experiencing and learning the outdoors brought to me a new found understanding of life. Anything is possible if you can just make the smallest of efforts to launch yourself towards the goal of your dreams. People don't climb mountains in one day, it takes planning, gear, training and moving forward one step at a time! Jason and I told ourselves while standing on the side of rocky cliffs with the wind blowing in our face "one step at a time". And that is how two computer programmers defeated the most challenging adventure they never thought possible. I now know anything is possible for me moving forward in life. The only question is do I have the will and determination to chase down my dreams no matter what challenges lie on the trail ahead... I guess only time will tell.

Just made it to the car after 40 miles ...... Cruisers Pizza through the eyes of the Stang

Hiking Simulation